THE LOST CITY

Tourism is bringing visitors to almost every corner of Cambodia, breathing life into ancient cities. Yet Sambor Prei Kuk, once the bustling heart of a mighty empire, remains a deserted relic.

Nestled amongst the forest and scrub of central Cambodia, Sambor Prei Kuk is the largest pre-Angkorean settlement in Cambodia.

Over 150 ancient brick temples lurk in the trees, and though weather, war and looting have taken their toll, the site remains a rare delight.

ARCHITECTURAL MASTERPIECES

The above ground ruins, mostly brick towers, are scattered across 25km2, although this represents only a tiny fraction of the original city. All residences, even the king's, were built of wood as only temples were seen to be worthy of brick construction. What remains is surprisingly well preserved - a testament to the incredible skills of ancient Khmer architects. Clay bricks were bonded with tree sap cement far more durable than its modern counterpart, a compound which has so far defied chemical analysis. Sambor architecture shows a refined elegance lacking in Angkor's crude, clunky monoliths, its superb carvings and lintels all the more charming for their pastel tones and rough patina. Sambor's distinctive artistic style, known for its intricacy and floral motifs, greatly influenced later generations.

Indeed, the site has yielded many sculptural masterpieces; discoveries which have helped reveal the original purpose of these enigmatic shrines. A buxom torso believed to be the fecund Durga (mother goddess) was discovered in the largest temple and an exquisite Harihara (Shiva and Vishnu as one) stood nearby-both are figures from the Hindu pantheon. Although Sambor Prey Kuk translates as 'forest temples' in modern Khmer, many believe the name is a corruption of the ancient Khmer Prasat Samphubora (temples of the Lord Shiva), leading many to conclude this fertility god was the dominant figure. Even today, the Somasutra (outlets), lingo, and yoni associated with Shiva worship can be seen in
most shrines, but like modern Cambodians, it is likely the ancient residents worshipped a multitude of deities.

Sambor Prei Kuk is divided into two groups; narrow, sandy paths snaking through the tangled forest, the only links between temples. Glimpses of decrepit towers, half buried, lure visitors into emerald clearings where the fretted pastel sentinels sit silent. The great walled temples of Prasat Too. Prasat Yeay Poan and Prasat Sambor make up the eastern group, while a three-sided earth ern rampart encloses the numerous smaller shrines of the western group. The scale of eastern temples is imposing. Enclosed by double walls, the central tower is flanked by statues, shrines, and sacred tanks. The layout is similar to Angkorian monuments, though compressed and simplified.

ATMOSPHERE

Yet it is the ambience, melancholy and muted, that haunts visitors. Ragged slabs of masonry lean pell-mell against one-another in the dappled shade, gaps yawning like missing teeth. The cool sanctuaries, a haven from the dusty afternoon heat, are still and intimate. The area is not yet on the tourist map, although developments, such as the new road to Koh Ker, mean development is on the way. Still, tourism here remains minimal and visitors rare, at least for the time being.

PAST TO PRESENT

The area was very different 1500 years ago. Then Sambor Prei Kuk, at that time known as /sanapura, was famed for its rich markets, civilised culture, and busy streets. The story begins in the early 6th century, when Cambodia was divided between two warring states: southern Funan, a coastal empire based around fishing and trade, and the northern Chen/a, supported by a proto – Angkorian rice economy. Originally a vassal of Funan, Chenla turned the tables on its former master in the early 7th century under the military"' leadership of warrior-king Citrasena Mahendravarrnan (590-610 AD). Funan expansion was checked and Chenla flourished, gaining independence and power.

Citrasena's son, King Isanavarman I (611-636 AD), is thought to be the founder of Isanapura. His choice of location was simple but inspired. Known as 'the navel of Cambodia,' Isanapura controlled the hub of rivers and roads linking Chenla to Funan. With a stranglehold on trade, military dominance, and a flair for administrative reform, Isanavaraman I dominated the region. It was a golden age. lsanapura quickly became capital of the first powerful and unified kingdom in Cambodian history. Chinese official annals state that the city had more than 20,000 households. Security and prosperity allowed rapid cultural development.

Two centuries later the empire was in tatters. Chinese sources reveal a familiar pattern - a tragic civil war which divided the Chenla empire into 'water Chenla' and 'land Chenla' (possibly a reversion to the original Funan and Chenla) during the8thcentury. Ravaged by conflict, Cambodia once again slipped into obscurity. Despite uncertain politics, Isanapura continued to be an important provincial town, even after the rise of Angkor. Buildings have been dated to thereignofSuryavarmanlt1002 - 1050 AD) and construction probably continued into the 12th century. Visitors can easily see the graduation from brick to Angkorian unmortared laterite in the western group. A recent archaeological survey discovered traces of a road thought to link Sambor with the Angkorian settlements of Preah Khan, Koh Keh, Angkor Thorn. and Preah Vihear to the north.

SAFEGUARDS FOR THE FUTURE

After the fall of Angkor, Isanapura was abandoned and the jungle quickly reclaimed the site. Known only to a few local villagers, Sambor Prei Kuk was lost to the world for a millennium. Rediscovered in the 19th century, the site has been ravaged by treasure hunters dynamiting altars in search of the precious offerings left there by the original builders. Only aggressive conservation measures, first by the EFEO (Ecole froncoise d'Extrerne-Orient) and then by the S.P.K. Conservation Project, saved the overgrown structures from oblivion. Vegetation was cleared, rubble removed. A few outlying temples have escaped preservation. Here soaring trees choke the reeling shrines, crumbling brick is swathed in mottled roots. Arboreal fingers rend and break, or else entwine and embrace like jealous lovers.

Sam Campbell

Photographs by

Sam Campbell